Choyul - an Ambigram
Is it Tibet? Or Sikkim? May be both at the same time? Find out yourself ...
The Himalayan state referred to as Choyul - the land of the Buddhist faith - was characterized as a theocracy for centuries. Religion influenced practically every aspect of daily life, business and politics. According to the mentality of the Choyulpa, a peaceful balance with the environment and spiritual merits weighed heavier than financial gain. Hence, a high percentage of the country's population belonged to one or another monastic order. Owing to the widely recognized values so different from those in most other countries, Choyul had developed a culture mainly directed to the inner worlds showing little concern for exchange or cooperation with the neighbouring countries and their people. The land was structured following feudalistic patterns and lead by a temporal ruler who, at the same time, was a spiritual authority, or vice versa.
In the second half of the last century, Choyul was occupied and finally annexed by its powerful neighbour. A state that had escaped foreign rule shortly before, it did not bother to turn from oppressed to oppressor submerging formerly independent abutters. However, the conqueror preferred to euphemistically call the invasion a "liberation", "developmental assistance" or "democratisation". Prior to the actual takeover, influence in peripheral territories of Choyul had been consolidated and the districts concerned were renamed in order to provide a background for the claim that the region had been under control of the occupying force for a long time and did not constitute a part of Choyul proper. With the area of occupation thus reduced, the invader attempted to also diminish the extent of offence in view of potential international objections. As soon as the power of the barrels had set the scene, the take-over was "legalized" with a mutual agreement. Needless to say that the signatories on the part of Choyul were stigmatized as traitors for lifetime.
Subsequently, the promised developments turned out to head towards breakup of the particular identity of the indigenous population in order to phase them with the defining culture of the occupying power. To that end, huge numbers of settlers were brought to the land. Adherence to the traditional culture was discouraged or - more or less decently - suppressed. Indigenous languages were reduced to a minor role within the many languages spoken in the vast empire. Vernacular place names were transliterated in a manner making it almost impossible to recognize the original meaning. In the same extent as outsiders were brought into the land, natural resources were exploited and carried away. The administration was increasingly run by representatives of the foreign settlers meanwhile outnumbering the original population. Therefore, local authorities showed little or no reservation concerning the conversion of heritage places into modern infrastructural facilities: A temple could be demolished to get space for an airfield, monasteries were transformed into prisons and a number of holy places had to give way for industrial plants, to mention a few examples.
The position of the once all-dominating clergy has been taken over by the all-dominating state party. The monastic institutions were, in turn, entrusted with the most significant mission to boost tourism - and expected to shut up. Whatever is going on in Choyul has been approved by the party and nothing will happen against its will. Terming itself "democratic", the party undertakes dedicated efforts to maintain a uniform political setting defending acquired power against the ill of pluralism. Every administrative, legislative or executive position is occuppied by members of the party. Every average employment or investment requires the nod of the party.
Such a dominating and all-embracing body requires, of course, an all-knowing and omnipresent figurehead which, in the case of the state party, is the Great Chairman or CM, in brief. A man of humble background, he soared up to be the leader of a revolution which, in the course of time, turned from democratic to autocratic. His portrait depicting a marked mongoloid type with a tired look, high hairline and a distinctive wart on the chin is met at every public building and many private offices, enterprises and households. Every shed raised, every scrapheap removed requires a solemn speech praising the merits of the Chairman in this regard. In more prestigious and more expensive projects, the mounting of an additional black plaque heralding the CM's fame is a must. The press reports and lauds such activities on a daily base. The observer from outside may term this habit as a humiliating servility which, in fact, it is. However, one has to consider the high extent of dependency on the part of both, the indigenous as well as the immigrant citizens, to understand their attitude.
In spite of his enormous political power, the CM himself prefers to be perceived as a poet rather than as a politician. In fact, he is the author of numerous poems and tales and he has a number of literary awards to his credit. Yet, in contrast to his noted fictional compositions, the CM's public speeches are rather uninspiring, technocratical, not to say boring.
Decades of efforts on the part of the administration and the state party - which, in this case, is very much the same - repeatedly brought Choyul attention and recognition on the national level. The party carefully cultivates the image of a prosperous and peaceful region of the Motherland. However, below the polished surface, discontent and despair are palpable. Misuse of power and corruption are abysmal and a daily occurrence. The judiciary system is under-staffed and behind schedule. Inter-ethnic tension is on the rise and the terrifying number of - partly spectacular - suicides reveals that all is not well in Choyul. The state party exerts increasing pressure on the population in order to keep the lid on the boiling pot. One does not wonder wether the authorities will manage to keep the matter under control.
The question of concern is: How long will they retain control?
Chopel Serkhangpa, 30th December 2012
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