Darjeeling Unlimited

Sikkim - Hidden Valley

Valley of Rice

According to the lore of the ancient Indian sage, guru and sorcerer from Uddiyana popularly known as Guru Rinpoche, Sikkim was one of several hidden valleys. They were sealed and inapproachable until the need for a refuge would arise due to degeneration, lawlessness and evil practices for the followers of the noble doctrine. Bayul Demoshong, as the valley was referred to in the ancient scriptures, was finally opened by Lhatsun Namkha Jigme in the 17th century whereupon Buddhist masters and their followers entered the valley over the high passes to find their 'promised land' which, however, wasn't an empty land. People belonging to three different tribes already inhabited Demoshong:

According to their own tradition, the Rong were created in Sikkim itself, and though modern anthropology assumes that mankind stems from a single cradle in southern Africa, this claim does not need a refutation, here. Tibetans called them Monpa, a somewhat generic term for the tribes dwelling in the southern forestlands, while to the contemporary public they are mostly known as Lepcha. They lead a simple life in the northern parts of Sikkim striving to maintain balance and harmony with the nature surrounding them and the resident ancient deities and spirits.

The Yakthungpa mainly inhabited the southern area of Demoshong. They had immigrated from Tibet in pre-Buddhist times and were renowned for animal husbandry and archery. According to their supposed provenance from the Tsang province of Tibet they were also named Tsong, while the most widespread term for these people is Limbu.

The Bhutia immigrated from Tibet from the later 13th century onwards. Their chief had, originally, come to the area to meet the Lepcha hierarch and famed shaman Tekong-Tek to get his blessings. The two men developed a friendship they decided to extend to their entire tribes. Thus, they united in a blood-brotherhood between Lepcha and Bhutia. The Bhutia prefer to call themselves Lhopo (Southerners).

With the formal opening of Demoshong, Tibetan Buddhism started spreading, whereupon three eminent spiritual masters found it was time for a Chogyal (Dharmaraja or religious king) to reign 'Denjong', the Valley of Rice. Thus, they enthroned Pintso Namgyal as the first King of Sikkim in 1642. The Chogyal initiated a new alliance called 'Lho-Mon-Tsong-Sum' embracing all the three (sum): Lhopo, Monpa and Tsong. Hence, the determining elements of the Buddhist Kingdom of Sikkim were joined. This was the background to last for the next two centuries. Sources confirm that the shares in the population of Sikkim were roughly 50% Lepcha, 25% Limbu and 25% Bhutia in 1816.

In the 19th century, a new determinant arose with the establishment of the British East India Company on the Indian subcontinent. For Sikkim, the 'new neighbours' were highly welcome allies in her ongoing border disputes with Nepal. However, backing was not for free. Urged by the British Governor, Chogyal Tshudpud Namgyal had to 'lease' Darjeeling and the surrounding territory to the British in 1835.

The East India Company, however, had more far-reaching ambitions. An enterprise aimed at doing business and making profit, the British set out to open a transit route through Sikkim to establish trade with Tibet. Evasive response to their intensions on the part of Sikkim as well as from Tibet itself was not considered satisfactory. Measures to be taken in the case of Sikkim were as simple as presumptuous: Since the Sikkimese did not show appreciation for the requirements of the modern era sticking, instead, to archaic traditions and honouring ancient loyalties, they were bad for business. So, the British decided to replace the population of the kingdom. It looks like they did not have to feel unethical for such undertakings, words like 'imperialism' or 'racism' did not have the negative connotation they have today. Most likely, this was just a business plan.

The Company initiated and encouraged immigration of Nepali labourers for tea plantations, agriculture, mining and roadworks. They were so successful that, in 1891, Nepali immigrants already outnumbered the original population. H. H. Risley, editor of the 'Gazetteer of Sikhim' openly estimates in 1894, that

"The Lepchas, as has been stated, are rapidly dying out; while from the west, the industrious Newars and Goorkhas of Nepal are pressing forward to clear and cultivate the large areas of unoccupied land on which the European tea-planters of Darjeeling have already cast longing eyes. The influx of these hereditary ennemies of Tibet is our surest garantee against a revival of Tibetan influence. Here also religion will play a leading part. In Sikhim, as in India, Hinduism will assuredly cast out Buddhism ..."

In 1947, the foreign masters abandoned the subcontinent leaving their workmen behind. Meanwhile, their fraction has increased to more than 80% of the population of Sikkim. The British scheme is nearing completion.

Photo Credit: Prabin Khaling